The Sea of Cortez…

Sunday, May 6th we pulled the anchor out of the mud, exited the harbor at high tide and headed north. There was no wind and we decided to anchor in Bahia Marquer on Isla Carmen. We explored the beaches and found lots of skinny starfish. We fished from the dink, took a swim and enjoyed a spectacular sunset. What a stellar day!
Monday morning we watched the sunrise as the full moon set at the same time. We upped anchor and motored to Agua Verde and anchored in front of the goat village. We are glad that we carry lots of diesel because there hasn’t been much wind during the days in the Sea. We explored the beaches nearby and found some starfish.
Tuesday morning Mike rebuilt the water system that we had worked on in La Paz after finding the fittings to be the wrong size and there were no hose clamps on the hoses! We took the dink into town and visited both tiendas and walked through town which didn’t take long because the town is very small. We threw the kayak in and explored the bay while getting a little paddling in.
In the afternoon, when the fishermen returned to the beach, we went to shore to see if we could buy some fish. We gave the children bubbles and spoke with the fishermen. When I told them mi esposa es mal pescadero (my husband is a bad fisherman) they all got a big laugh and gave us 4 fish. Mike tipped them 50 pesos and thanked them. It seems our fishing skills have improved dramatically!
Wednesday we walked to Maria’s Tienda to get some fresh eggs then wandered around to find someone to sell us 2 gallons of gas for the dink. We motored around the point (south) and anchored in Sainte Marte with the anchorage to ourselves. We explored the rocky beach and Mike climbed the hill above it. There were lots of rocks on the beach with what looked like signal flags in them I even found a rock with a heart in it. On one of the beaches we found lots of whale bones scattered. What an amazing place!
Thursday morning we weighed anchor and motored south. The landscape along the coast was very dramatic and beautiful! We anchored in Los Gatos and shortly after were greeted by Manuel who took our order for fresh lobster and scallops. We went to explore the beach when Manuel found us and brought us our order. He said he would come to Mermaid later for us to pay him. The beaches were amazing with rocks that had Mike in heaven exploring. I found lots of starfish and other goodies. There were tide pools that were fun to explore.
Back at the boat Manuel joined us for cocktails and Puddle Pirate crew came over for sundowners. Later, Mike grilled the lobster and they were delicious!
Friday (May 11) we took a nice walk on the beach before heading south. As we were leaving Pura Vida can in and waited for our spot. Late in the afternoon we arrived at the anchorage of Amortajada and decided it was too exposed for the coroumels that were predicted for the evening. We navigated the reef between the islands and anchored on the east side of Isla San Francisco. I cooked the scallops for our dinner and PeeWee had left over lobster… his favorite dinner!
Saturday we took the dink to the north side of the island and found a starfish and a paper nautilus. I was attacked by seagulls while walking on the beach and we decided that they must be nesting nearby. We dingied to Isla Coyote and were greeted by another Manuel who took us on a tour of his small island which ended at the house where they sell handmade jewelry that the ladies make on the island. Shopping done we headed back to Mermaid for a float behind the boat (it was HOT) before exploring the beach and picking up agates. We found a pair of Osprey guarding their nest. They really kept an eye on us.
Sunday morning we hiked up the hill before walking on the beach and finding more agates before heading south again. While motoring south we saw many manta rays jumping all around us. The water was flat calm and there was no wind. We anchored in Bahia Bonanza and enjoyed the turquoise water and white sand beach.
Monday morning we headed to Bahia Muertos… The developers in the bay have renamed it Bahia Suenos because it was hard to sell real estate in Bay of the Dead… much easier in Bay of Dreams. Cruisers and locals still call it Muertos. We kayaked into shore to the restaurant and had hamburgers and french fries before returning to the boat for a swim… boy has it gotten hot! Lots of manta rays jumped all around us.
Tuesday morning we headed south toward Bahia Los Fralies. There was some wind but it was on the nose. During the day we had to dodge fishing boats and pangas. When we arrived Fralies (after 9 hours) there was a large south swell and wind from the south… no good in an anchorage opened to the south. We decided to go ahead and cross over to the mainland. We had hoped to get a night of sleep before the 45 hour crossing, but that didn’t happen. Oh well, it’s all part of the adventure. At least we had wind and now we could sail at least for now.
We sailed all night! We even had to reduce our sail area. We heard pangas on the radio during the night but saw none. Wednesday’s sunrise was beautiful. We are constantly in awe of how beautiful the sunrises and sunsets are at sea! We were able to sail all day much to our surprise and delight. But, during the night the wind died and Henry had to go to work.
Thursday we motored into Punta Mita just before noon and dropped the hook. We splashed the dink and went in for lunch. We were exhausted and lazed about the boat after lunch. The anchorage was rolly all night and we decided to head to La Cruz in the morning.

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